Climber Injury Prevention: For Grand River Rocks Team

Grand River Rocks Climbing Team

Injury Prevention Workout

General Guidelines:

·         Every other day ideal: Minimum 2 times x week

·         At the end of a climbing/training session or an off day, warm up if you are cold (i.e., arm rotations, 1 boulder problem)

·         Do not do anything else other than stretch after these exercises (e.g., no pushups, no pull-ups, no hang board, no campus board, no climbing... ect)

·         The goal is to strengthen supporting muscles: do not go to fatigue

·         Do the exercises in order they are presented, they are like this for a reason

·         You should feel burning any pinching at any time, please stop the exercise and consult a coach or Robyn. Avoid hard climbing until assessed.

Exercise	Repetitions	Sets	Description	Intensity
1.Thera-Band Reverse Fly	15-25	Minimum 1, ideal 3-4	Loop the TB around the stairs so it’s right below shoulder height. Standing tall, facing the stairs, abs engaged, pull band backwards in a “fly” motion. Keep arms straight	30-50% TB tension*
2. Thera-band Forward Fly	15-25	Minimum 1, ideal 3-4	Loop the TB around the stairs so it’s right below shoulder height. Standing tall, facing away from the stairs, abs engaged, pull band backwards in a “fly” motion. Keep arms straight	30-50% TB tension
3. Thera-Band Overhead Pull	12-15	Minimum 1, ideal 2-3	Holding the TB over head, sitting cross legged, on your knees, or standing, pull the TB down so your arms are in line with the ground, keeping your arms straight	20-40% TB tension
4. Thera-Band Triceps Pull Downs	15-25	Minimum 1, 2-3 ideal	Standing. Hold the TB in one hand and place it at the top of your working arm, hold the other end in the hand of your working arm so the elbow is at 90 degrees and there is tension on the band. Pull the band down until your arm is straight while keeping the upper portion of the arm pinned your body. Repeat on the other side.	30-50% TB tension
5. Thera-Band Arm Openers	12-15	Minimum 1, 2-3 ideal	On knees or standing. Holding the TB in both hands, hold the band on your working arm like you are going to shake someone’s hand. Keep your upper arm pinned to your side and your elbow at a 90 degree angle. Pull the band away from you so your palm is facing away from you, opening up the arm.	20-30% TB tension

** Note:  TB= thera-band, also, for the TB resistance, that is subjective (ish). Basically, if you're aiming for 20% tension, what that means is 100% the maximum tension you can pull, you want to subjectively pull with 20% of that.

#1. TB Reverse Fly Start Position

#1. TB Reverse Fly End Position

#2. TB Forward Fly Start Position

#2. TB Forward Fly End Position

#3. TB Overhead Pull Start Position

#3. TB Overhead Pull End Position

 

#4. TB Triceps Pull Down Start Position

#3. TB Triceps Pull Down End Position

#4. TB Arm Openers Start Position

#4. TB Arm Openers End Position

 A good rule of thumb for injury prevention is you a) don't want pinching, b) don't want to fatigue the muscles and c) feel a slight burn. So if you're dying doing this stuff you're going way too hard!

Disclaimer: I am not a trained Athletic Therapist or Physiotherapist and these exercises are not meant to -treat- shoulder injuries. These exercises are intended to strengthen the supporting muscles, tendons and ligaments of the shoulders, and counter act the movements often produced by rock climbing to avoid injury as much as possible.

Any questions/comments/concerns are always appreciated!

You can contact me at byntraining@gmail.com

~ Byn